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Vegetarian and Vegan Food in Florence: Where to Eat

Feb 4, 2024
6 min read

Updated: 49 minutes ago

Updated October 2026

Plate of green risotto at Babae, Florence

Florence is famous for steak, yet some of the dishes I crave most have never seen meat. When I want a break from bistecca, these are the dishes I order and the places I go. For more, browse my Eat and Drink guides.

Cooking stations at the Lorenzo de' Medici cooking school, Florence

Lantern lit vaulted dining room at Konnubio, Florence


Tuscan dishes that are naturally meat-free

  • Ribollita. A thick soup of bread, cavolo nero and beans. Ask if the broth is vegetable.

  • Pappa al pomodoro. Bread and tomato cooked into a comforting porridge with basil and olive oil.

  • Panzanella. A summer bread salad with tomato, cucumber and onion.

  • Fagioli all'uccelletto. White beans stewed with tomato and sage.

  • Ravioli or gnudi with ricotta and spinach. Often served with butter and sage.

  • Pici all'aglione. Thick hand-rolled pasta with tomato and mild garlic. Compare more shapes in Where to Eat Pasta in Florence.

Neon sign in the window of Trattoria il Contadino, Florence


Vegetarian and vegan places to eat


Il Vegetariano

Address: Via delle Ruote 30r.

Green doorway with plants outside Il Vegetariano, Florence

People at the wine window outside Babae on a Florence street

On Via delle Ruote near San Marco, Il Vegetariano has served meat-free food for decades, with a self-service counter and a garden courtyard.

Garden entrance and sign of Ristorante Biagio Pignatta, Florence


Libreria Brac

Address: Via dei Vagellai 18r.

A bookshop and vegetarian and vegan bistro near Santa Croce, on Via dei Vagellai. Great for a slow lunch among art books.

Painted sign of Osteria Acquacheta on an ivy covered wall, Florence


Shop the markets

Staying somewhere with a kitchen? Sant'Ambrogio market is where locals buy produce, open Monday to Saturday mornings until 2pm. The ground floor of the central market is another option; see my Mercato Centrale Florence guide.

Trattoria da Rocco counter inside the Sant'Ambrogio market, Florence

Stone walled dining room at Cum Quibus, Florence


Ordering tips

  • "Sono vegetariano" or "vegetariana" means I am vegetarian. "Vegano" is vegan.

  • Ask "c'è carne o brodo di carne?" to check for meat or meat broth.

  • Vegans should watch for butter, cheese and egg pasta. Dried pasta is usually egg-free.

Combining food with fitness? My gyms in Florence guide adds running routes and healthy spots. And for a gentler pace of travel built around markets and meals, read my slow travel in Florence guide.


Where to stay

Santa Croce is close to Sant'Ambrogio market and Brac. See where to stay near Santa Croce.

Peppers and eggplants on a produce stall at the Sant'Ambrogio market, Florence


Opening hours I plan around

Il Vegetariano keeps its own rhythm, so I check before I go. As of October 2026 it serves lunch Monday to Friday and dinner Tuesday to Sunday, which means Monday is lunch only and weekends are dinner only.

It is self-service: you order at the counter, write your name on the slip and carry your tray to the courtyard. Arrive early for dinner on a Saturday, because locals fill it fast.


Ordering vegetarian in a regular trattoria

Honestly, most of my best vegetarian meals in Florence happen in ordinary trattorias. The trick is to ignore the meat section and build a meal from the rest of the menu. I start with crostini or a plate of Tuscan pecorino with honey, then a primo like ribollita in winter or pappa al pomodoro in summer.

For the main course I order two or three contorni, the vegetable sides: white beans with olive oil, sautéed greens, roasted potatoes, grilled vegetables or artichokes when they are in season. A good contorno in Florence is a dish in its own right, not an afterthought.

Green doors of Ditta Artigianale Neri on a Florence street

Desserts are easy. Cantucci with vin santo, a slice of schiacciata alla fiorentina during Carnival, or a scoop of gelato on the walk home.

Wood beamed dining room at Osteria Santo Spirito, Florence


Eating vegetarian in the Tuscan countryside

Outside the city it gets even easier. In the Chianti and Val d'Orcia countryside, menus lean on handmade pici, porcini mushrooms in autumn, truffles from the hills near San Miniato, chickpea cecina on the coast and plenty of pecorino from Pienza.

Farm stays, the agriturismi, often cook with their own vegetables and olive oil. If you are planning day trips, my Tuscan towns day trip guide shows where I go. Traveling with a group and want a private chef who cooks to your diet? A villa from Exclusive Villa Collection is the easiest way to do it.


Useful words on an Italian menu

  • Verdure: vegetables. Contorni: side dishes, usually vegetables.

  • Fagioli: beans. Ceci: chickpeas. Lenticchie: lentils.

  • Funghi porcini: porcini mushrooms. Tartufo: truffle.

  • Senza carne: without meat. Senza formaggio: without cheese.

  • Pancetta, guanciale, lardo: all pork, so watch for them in pasta sauces and soups.

  • Acciughe: anchovies, which hide in some salsa verde and crostini toppings.

A friendly question to the waiter goes a long way. Florentine kitchens are used to requests, and I have never had a server refuse to leave the pancetta off a pasta when asked politely.


Street food without meat

Florence's famous street foods are lampredotto and porchetta, so vegetarians need a plan. Schiacciata, the salty Tuscan flatbread, is my go-to: most sandwich shops will fill it with pecorino, grilled vegetables, sun-dried tomatoes and truffle cream. A slice of pizza or a cecina from a bakery also works, and gelato always counts as lunch on a hot day.


Seasonal produce to look for

  • Spring: artichokes, fava beans, asparagus and fresh peas.

  • Summer: tomatoes, zucchini flowers, peppers and peaches.

  • Autumn: porcini, chestnuts, grapes and the new olive oil in November.

  • Winter: cavolo nero, cardoons, citrus and bean soups.


Vegan travelers

Vegan eating is harder than vegetarian in Tuscany, because cheese, butter and eggs appear in many dishes, including fresh pasta.

Still, many traditional dishes are naturally vegan or easy to adapt: ribollita made without parmesan rind, pappa al pomodoro, panzanella, white beans with olive oil, farinata of chickpeas, grilled and marinated vegetables, and dried pasta with tomato or garlic and chili.

Say "sono vegano, niente formaggio, burro, uova o latte" and most kitchens will understand. Gelato shops increasingly offer vegan sorbets and plant milk flavors; fruit sorbets are usually dairy free, but always ask.


Cooking classes for vegetarians

A cooking class is one of the best ways to learn vegetarian Tuscan food. Many schools will adapt their menus with notice, teaching you to make ricotta and spinach gnudi, pici with tomato and garlic, or a seasonal vegetable risotto. My cooking classes guide lists my favorites.


A vegetarian day in Florence

I start with a cornetto and cappuccino at the bar, then shop the Sant'Ambrogio market. Lunch is a plate of ribollita or pappa al pomodoro and a glass of red at a trattoria.

In the afternoon, a gelato in pistachio or fruit flavors. Dinner is gnudi or a mushroom pasta, grilled vegetables and a bowl of white beans with good olive oil. It is simple, seasonal food, and some of the best I eat all year.


Allergies and intolerances

Gluten free is well understood in Italy, where celiac disease is widely tested. Look for "senza glutine" on menus. For allergies, carry a card in Italian.


Cheese for vegetarians

Some Italian cheeses, including Parmigiano Reggiano and many aged pecorinos, are made with animal rennet. Strict vegetarians can ask for cheeses made with vegetable rennet, "caglio vegetale", which some Tuscan producers use, especially for fresh ricotta and young pecorino. Market cheesemongers at Sant'Ambrogio know their producers and will tell you.


Picnics without meat

For a picnic in the Boboli or Bardini gardens, I buy schiacciata, fresh pecorino, cherry tomatoes, olives, grilled vegetables and fruit at the market, plus a bottle of water from a fontanello. It is one of my favorite lunches in Florence, especially in late spring, and it tastes just as Tuscan as any restaurant meal, with a better view.


A useful phrase

"Sono vegetariano" (or "vegetariana" for a woman) means I am vegetarian. Add "senza carne né pesce", without meat or fish, and kitchens will happily adapt a dish for you.


FAQ


Is Florence good for vegetarians?

Yes. Tuscan bread soups, bean dishes and ricotta pastas make it easy.


Is ribollita vegetarian?

Usually, but some kitchens use meat broth. Always ask.


Are there vegan options in Florence?

Yes. Libreria Brac and Il Vegetariano both have vegan dishes, and many bean, vegetable and dried pasta dishes are vegan by default.


What vegetarian dishes should I try in Tuscany?

Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, panzanella, pici all'aglione, porcini in autumn and pecorino from Pienza.


Is Libreria Brac vegetarian?

Yes. Libreria Brac is a bookshop and bistro with a fully vegetarian menu and plenty of vegan dishes, near Santa Croce.


About the author

I'm Jason GaNung, and I write every guide on Florence Life. I have spent extensive time in Florence over many trips, and I have stayed in many of the hotels and villas I cover, so my picks come from my own stays, not press releases. More about me.

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