Christmas in Florence: Markets, Lights and Things to Do
Updated: Oct 26
Updated October 2026
Florence in December is one of my favorite versions of the city. The crowds thin, the streets fill with lights and the smell of roasted chestnuts drifts across the piazzas.
Here is what to do, with the 2026 dates I could confirm. To compare December with other months, see my month-by-month guide to visiting Florence.
The Santa Croce Christmas market
From 14 November to 20 December 2026, Piazza Santa Croce fills with wooden stalls in the style of a German Weihnachtsmarkt. Entry is free. Expect mulled wine, sausages, sweets and gifts, with the basilica facade as a backdrop. Note that it closes before Christmas week.
The Duomo tree and the nativity
The city lights its main Christmas trees, including the one in Piazza del Duomo, around the 8 December holiday. The exact date is set each year by the City of Florence and had not been announced for 2026 when I last checked. A life-size nativity scene is usually placed by the cathedral from 8 December until Epiphany.
Lights across the city
Streets like Via de' Tornabuoni and Via Calzaiuoli are strung with lights. In recent years the city has also run a light festival with video projections on the Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Vecchio. Dates for the 2026 to 2027 edition were not confirmed when I last checked, so look at the City of Florence events page in late November.
Holiday dates to plan around
Tuesday 8 December 2026: Immaculate Conception, a public holiday. Expect busy streets.
25 December: the Uffizi, the Accademia and the Duomo complex are closed.
1 January: many museums and the Duomo complex are closed.
6 January: Epiphany, with the Cavalcata dei Magi procession from Piazza Pitti to the Duomo.
Christmas shopping
The Tornabuoni windows are at their best in December, and the markets are full of handmade gifts. See my guide to luxury shopping in Florence.
Traditions and food
For panettone, Florentine holiday sweets and how locals celebrate, read my companion post on Florentine Christmas traditions and holiday food. Coming earlier? See where to find Thanksgiving in Florence.
A simple December plan
Morning: a museum, which is calmer in winter.
Afternoon: the Santa Croce market, before it closes on 20 December.
Dusk: a walk down Via de' Tornabuoni to see the lights.
Evening: a long dinner in a warm trattoria.
Where to stay
Santa Croce puts you steps from the market. See where to stay near Santa Croce.
New Year's Eve in Florence
New Year's Eve, Capodanno, is a big night out. The city usually organizes free events and concerts in several piazzas, and many restaurants offer long set dinners, the cenone.
At midnight, crowds gather on the bridges along the Arno to watch fireworks, and the Lungarno is my favorite place to be. On 1 January the city is very quiet, and many museums and the Duomo are closed, so plan a lazy lunch and a walk.
Winter museums without crowds
This is the season to see the big museums properly. Lines at the Uffizi and the Accademia are short on December weekday mornings, and the rooms feel calm.
I like to pair a museum morning with a hot chocolate break. Remember that most state museums are closed on Mondays, and on 25 December and 1 January. My Uffizi guide has the route I use.
Day trips in December
Short winter days are perfect for a train trip to Siena, where the Piazza del Campo is decorated for the holidays and the bakeries are full of panforte. Lucca and its walls are lovely on a crisp, sunny day too. See my Siena day trip guide.
Ice skating and family fun
In some winters the city sets up an ice rink and holiday activities for children, often near the Fortezza da Basso or in a central piazza. Details change each year, so check the City of Florence events page when you arrive.
The carousel in Piazza della Repubblica runs through the season and is a favorite with little ones, and Palazzo Vecchio hosts family activities on weekends.
Eating in December
Winter is the best season for Tuscan food. Look for ribollita, pappa al pomodoro made with preserved tomatoes, bollito misto with salsa verde, porcini and chestnuts, and the new olive oil poured over warm bread. My best pasta in Florence has warm trattorias for cold nights.
What to pack
A warm coat, a scarf, gloves and waterproof shoes. Florence's stone streets get slippery in the rain, and the evenings near the river are damp and cold. Layers help, because museums and restaurants are warm. My packing guide has a full winter list.
Christmas in a villa
For a family gathering, a villa in the Tuscan hills with a fireplace and a private chef makes a magical Christmas, and Florence is close for the markets and lights. Browse winter villas at Exclusive Villa Collection.
The Christmas concerts
Music is one of the best parts of December in Florence. Churches like Santo Spirito, Santa Croce and Orsanmichele host Christmas concerts of choral music, organ and baroque pieces, and the Teatro del Maggio Musicale often stages a festive opera or ballet.
On Christmas Eve, midnight mass in the Duomo is one of the most moving experiences of the season, with the cathedral full and the choir singing under the dome. Arrive early: the doors open well before the service and the space fills up.
Shop windows and the luxury streets
Via de' Tornabuoni, Florence's grand shopping street, is at its best in December. The fashion houses dress their windows, the palazzi are lit, and the street is hung with lights. I like to walk it at dusk, when the windows glow, then continue to Piazza della Repubblica for the carousel, which runs all year but feels most festive at Christmas.
Florence in the quiet days
Between Christmas and New Year, the city has a calm I love. Many Florentines leave to see family or ski, and the streets feel softer.
Museums are open on most days except Christmas Day and New Year's Day, and lines are short in the mornings. It is the best time I know to see the Uffizi or the Accademia without crowds.
Winter light and photos
December light is low and golden in the afternoon, perfect for photos along the Arno. The sun sets around 4:45 PM, so plan sunset at Piazzale Michelangelo early, then come back down for the lights, which switch on at dusk. On clear cold days, you may see snow on the Apennines from the hill.
Advent traditions to look for
Look for the presepi, nativity scenes, in churches all over the city, from simple figures to elaborate scenes with whole villages. The Befana, the kindly witch who brings sweets to children on 6 January, fills shop windows with stockings and coal made of sugar. Panettone and pandoro appear in every bakery from mid November.
What I always do
Every December I buy roasted chestnuts from a street vendor, warm my hands on the paper cone and walk through the Santa Croce market at night. It is simple, and it is Christmas in Florence for me.
Booking ahead in December
The 8 December weekend and New Year's Eve are the busiest dates. Book hotels, Christmas Day lunch and any New Year's dinner well in advance.
Where to eat in Florence over the holidays
Restaurants fill up fast in December, and many family trattorie close on 25 and 26 December and around New Year. Book Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve dinners at least two weeks ahead and confirm opening days before you go. These are the places I trust for a festive meal.
A classic Florentine dinner: Trattoria Sostanza or Buca Lapi, both cozy on a cold night. Both close on Sundays.
A big celebration: Enoteca Pinchiorri or Santa Elisabetta. See the most romantic restaurants in Florence.
A warming market lunch: Da Nerbone at the Mercato Centrale, for lampredotto on a cold morning.
Something sweet: panettone and panforte from the bakeries in my guide to Florence bakeries.
A festive drink: Caffè Gilli on Piazza della Repubblica, or one of the best cocktail bars in Florence.
For my full list, see the Best Restaurants in Florence, and for the dishes to look for, 20 Florentine foods to eat. Pasta lovers should read the best pasta in Florence.
Planning December? Read my companion guide, Florentine Christmas traditions and holiday food, and see my Florence hotel guides to find a place to stay near the lights.
FAQ
Is Florence busy at Christmas?
Early December is calm. The 8 December holiday weekend and the days between Christmas and New Year are busier.
Are restaurants open on Christmas Day?
Many are, often with a set holiday menu. Book well ahead.
How cold is it?
Expect chilly days and cold nights, with occasional rain. Pack a warm coat and waterproof shoes.
When is the Santa Croce Christmas market in 2026?
From 14 November to 20 December 2026 in Piazza Santa Croce, with free entry.
What happens in Florence on New Year's Eve?
Concerts in the piazzas, long dinners and fireworks over the Arno at midnight.
About the author
I'm Jason GaNung, and I write every guide on Florence Life. I have spent extensive time in Florence over many trips, and I have stayed in many of the hotels and villas I cover, so my picks come from my own stays, not press releases. More about me.
Read next
Plan my stay
Want a Christmas stay in Florence, planned around the markets and lights? Plan my Florence stay
Are restaurants open on Christmas Day in Florence?
Some are, often with a set menu, but many family trattorie close on 25 and 26 December. Book ahead and confirm opening days.
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